The clams clatter into the sink. I have taken to steaming the tiny netsuke-coloured shellfish in their own juices with nothing more than an egg cup of fino sherry and a couple of twists of the peppermill. I tear off a piece of bread – more holes than crumb – and wipe the briny juices from my plate. The larger clams, their shells grey and amber and plump like a dumpling, get steamed, too – but this time the nuggets of seafood are tugged from their shells, and tossed with coils of linguine, olive oil and chilli flakes the colour of dried blood.
I sometimes make a soup with clams, as well. Some would call it a chowder. I cook smoked bacon or pancetta cut into cubes over a low heat until the fat runs, then use it to fry potatoes cut into tiny dice. As the potatoes toast and soften, I stir in slices of skinny spring leeks no thicker than a pencil, a glass of dry vermouth (the resulting hiss and sizzle followed by clouds of scented steam), then sometimes a handful of parsley or tarragon. Occasionally, the recipe will get a dose of dairy, too, if only for the magic that happens when you stir cream into shellfish juices and wine.
The potatoes eke out the clams – the price of which can come as a surprise – soaking up the cooking liquor. I do the same with early asparagus, tossing the tight tips and chopped spears with basmati rice, spring onions and broad beans. That way, a single bunch can give four people their first taste of spring without breaking the bank. As the price comes down – and it does – every person gets their own bunch, steamed or cooked on the grill, dusted with grated parmesan or offered with a jug of egg and butter sauce. But for now, a green pilaf.
Asparagus, broad beans and brown basmati
The first imported broad beans should be coming through now – such a relief from the winter roots. If you are using frozen beans, allow 200g podded weight. Serves 4
broad beans 500g (weighed in their pods)
brown basmati rice 120g
cardamom pods 6
black peppercorns 6
bay leaves 2
cloves 3
garlic 1 clove
asparagus 400g
parsley leaves 10g
spring onions 3
mint leaves 12
yoghurt 100ml
olive oil 2 tbsp
nigella seeds 1 tsp
lemon 1 small
Put a deep saucepan of water on to boil and salt it lightly. Pod the broad beans, then drop them into the boiling water. Leave them for 3 or 4 minutes depending on their size, testing them until they are tender. Drain in a colander. If you wish, pop the beans from their papery skins.
Put the basmati rice into a small saucepan, add the cardamom pods, cracked open, the black peppercorns, bay leaves, cloves and the garlic, then cover with twice the volume of water as rice. Place over the heat and bring to the boil. As the water boils, turn the heat down, cover tightly with a lid and leave to cook for 12 minutes. Turn the heat off and leave to stand for 10 minutes, without lifting the lid.
Chop and discard the dry end of each spear of asparagus, then cut the asparagus into short lengths. Keep the tips separate for the time being. Bring a deep pan of water to the boil, salt it lightly, then add the asparagus spears, reserving the tips.
Once the spears have been boiling for 2 minutes, add the tips and continue for a further 3 or 4 minutes until bright and tender. Drain in a colander. Chop the parsley leaves and thinly slice the spring onions. Finely shred the mint leaves. Stir the parsley and mint into the yoghurt, then add the olive oil and a little salt. Set aside.
Tip the rice into a serving bowl, picking out the bay leaves as you go. Add the asparagus, broad beans, spring onions, a little sea salt and the nigella seeds. Grate the lemon zest over the rice and fork the ingredients gently together. Spoon the yoghurt dressing over the rice and turn gently with a fork to coat evenly.
Clam and leek chowder
Serves 4
leeks 250g, young (prepared weight)
speck, pancetta or bacon 100g piece
potatoes 350g (peeled weight)
olive oil optional
clams 500g, small
white vermouth or wine 200ml
double cream 150-200ml
parsley a handful, chopped
Slice the leeks thinly then wash them thoroughly in a bowl under running cold water. Cut the pancetta into small dice (about 1cm). Peel the potatoes and slice them thickly, then into roughly 1cm cubes.
Place a wide, shallow pan over a low to moderate heat and add the pancetta. When the fat starts to melt, add the potato. If your pancetta is lean, introduce a couple of tablespoons of olive oil. Cook for 10 minutes until the potatoes are tender and the pancetta is golden.
Wash the clams, discard any that are open, then put them in a pan over a high heat with a tight lid. Pour in the vermouth or white wine, plus 125ml of water, close the lid and steam for 3 or 4 minutes until the shells have opened. Strain the liquid from the clams through a fine sieve into the potatoes and pancetta. Remove the clams from their shells and set aside.
Drain the leeks and add them to the pan, letting them cook, covered with a lid, for 10 minutes until soft, then add the cream and parsley, and lastly the reserved clams. Season carefully and serve.
The Observer aims to publish recipes for fish rated as sustainable by the Marine Conservation Society’s Good Fish Guide
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